When you think of Budapest, a few things probably come to mind: the Danube, the Parliament building, and maybe – just maybe – old men playing chess in a steaming outdoor pool. That’s Széchenyi Bath, one of Europe’s biggest, boldest and most beloved thermal spas. Locals call it Szecska, a mix of old-world charm, hot mineral water and relaxed Hungarian vibes.

The dream that started underground

The story of Széchenyi Bath goes back to the late 1800s. A Hungarian mining engineer, Vilmos Zsigmondy, believed there was hot, healing water under City Park (Városliget). At the time, most thermal baths were on the Buda side of the city. Pest had nothing. Most people didn’t believe him. Still, he kept digging. For ten years.

Finally, in 1878, after a full decade of digging, Zsigmondy struck water. But not just any water. Hot, 74.5°C thermal water, gushing up from nearly 1,000 meters underground. It was one of the deepest and hottest artesian wells in Europe. And that’s where the magic began.

From modest tubs to palace pools

The city quickly built a small bathhouse, which was only a modest bathhouse – simple tubs, a small pool and even a few rooms where visitors could spend the night. But it quickly became clear this place had potential. In 1909 the city decided to build something grand.

Enter architect Győző Czigler, who designed a giant neo-Baroque palace full of curves, domes, fountains and mythical sea creatures carved into the walls. It opened in 1913 and was instantly a hit. Within a few years, nearly a million people were visiting each year.

As crowds grew, it became clear the bath needed more space. In 1926 the city launched a design contest to expand the complex. The winner was Imre Francsek, a talented architect who respected the original style but wasn’t afraid to add his own touch.

Francsek’s work added a new chapter to the story of Széchenyi Bath. He created wide, graceful courtyards, three large outdoor pools, and a whole new wing in neo-Renaissance style. His design didn’t just look good – it worked. He added saunas, steam rooms and smart layouts that welcomed both locals and visitors.

The outdoor pools opened in 1927, and today they’re among the most loved parts of the bath. Francsek made sure old and new fit together perfectly, and the result still feels seamless nearly a century later.

A place that keeps evolving

Over the years Széchenyi Bath has seen wars, renovations and waves of tourists. It got a second hot spring well in the 1930s to boost its water supply. By the late 1900s the building was showing its age, so major restoration began in the late ‘90s and early 2000s.

The walls got their soft yellow glow back, the mosaics were cleaned, the old systems replaced with modern ones. Today, Széchenyi Bath looks and feels better than ever.

The bath isn’t just about the buildings or the water – it’s about the vibe. Picture this: it’s a chilly morning, steam rises off the outdoor pools, and a few older men sit half-submerged, locked in a quiet game of chess. It’s become an iconic image – and yes, it really happens.

There are 21 pools in total – some indoors, some out – ranging from icy cold to hot enough to melt your stress away. You’ll find whirlpools, neck showers, massaging jets and plenty of room to float and relax.

There’s also a row of saunas, steam rooms, and even a “Pálmaház” (Palm House) on the upper floor, where you can unwind under tropical plants. And after all that? Grab a beer, a snack, or just lounge in the sun (or snow – yes, the outdoor pools are open year-round).

Not just for tourists

Sure, Széchenyi Bath is a major tourist attraction. But it’s still loved by locals. Some people come for health treatments – thermal water is said to help with joint pain and arthritis. Others come to swim laps, enjoy the sun, or just hang out. On a weekday morning, you’ll see older Hungarians who’ve been coming here for decades, soaking, talking, relaxing.

And that’s the charm of Széchenyi Bath. It’s not just beautiful. It feels real. It feels lived-in. You don’t have to book a massage or a fancy spa session (though you can). You can just show up with a swimsuit and towel, find a pool that suits you, and let the water do the rest.

• Address: 1146 Budapest, Állatkerti körút 9-11.
• Official website: szechenyibath.hu
• How to get there:
  • Take metro line 1 and get off at the Széchenyi fürdő station. The bath is literally steps from the exit.
  • You can also take bus 20E, 72 or 105 to Heroes’ Square (Hősök tere), then it’s just a short walk through the park.
  • Trolleybus 72 or 75: get off at Széchenyi fürdő or Állatkert. These lines run through central Pest and stop within walking distance of the bath.