When walking through Budapest, most people look around – but not up. But if you only look at street level, you’re missing half the story, because some of the city’s most stunning features sit right above our heads: the rooftops. More specifically, the colorful, glazed ceramic rooftops made by the Zsolnay Manufacture, which give certain buildings their unforgettable look.

These rooftops aren’t just colorful tiles. They tell stories of a creative partnership between brilliant architects and a ceramic factory in Pécs that changed the look of Budapest forever.

Zsolnay: from pottery to architectural marvels

The Zsolnay family’s journey began in the mid-1800s, when Vilmos Zsolnay took over a modest pottery workshop. Driven by a love of innovation, he experimented with clays, glazes and firing techniques. His most famous creation, the iridescent eosin glaze, became a signature of the brand. But for buildings, another invention stole the spotlight: pyrogranite. This tough, frost-resistant material turned out to be perfect for outdoor architectural elements like roof tiles.

Zsolnay ceramics first caught Budapest’s attention at the 1885 National Exhibition in Városliget. After that, their rooftop ceramics started popping up all over the capital, thanks in large part to architects like Ödön Lechner, Frigyes Schulek and Samu Pecz.

Ödön Lechner’s vision in ceramics

Museum of Applied Arts

Nicknamed the “Maharaja’s Palace” when it was built, this museum is one of Lechner’s most iconic designs. The roof is covered with nearly 115,000 glazed ceramic tiles – 60% green and 40% yellow – supplied by Zsolnay. It’s bold, unusual, and unlike anything else in Budapest. The building reflects Lechner’s vision of creating a unique Hungarian architectural style with Eastern influences.

Address: 1091 Budapest, Üllői út 33–37.
How to get there:
– Metro M3 (Blue line) – stop at Corvin-negyed
– Tram 4 or 6 – stop at Corvin-negyed

Saint Ladislaus Church

Look east from Fisherman’s Bastion on a clear day and you might spot a colorful tower far off in Kőbánya. That’s the Saint Ladislaus Church. Built in an eclectic mix of styles, the vibrant roof tiles and finials echo the Museum of Applied Arts. Lechner once said he designed the roof not for people on the ground, but for God – and the birds in the sky.

Address: 1102 Budapest Szt. László tér 25.
How to get there:
– Metro M2 (Red line): stop at Örs vezér tere, then take Tram 3 to Kőbánya felső
– Take a short suburban train (HÉV or local rail) to Kőbánya felső

Geological Institute

This fairy-tale building on Stefánia Road looks like something out of a dream. The blue ceramic roof tiles – light and dark – represents earth and sky – the core elements of geology. There’s even a globe on top held by four mythical figures, showing how much thought went into every detail.

Address: 1143 Budapest, Stefánia út 14.
How to get there:
– Metro M2 (Red line): stop at Stadionok, then a 5-minute walk
– Bus 7, 173, or 5: stop at Stefánia út

Post Savings Bank

Located on Hold Street, this might be the most extravagant Zsolnay roof in the city. The tile pattern resembles a folk tapestry. The rooftop is filled with surprising elements: winged snakes, fighting roosters and two bull heads inspired by ancient gold artifacts. The most charming detail? Ceramic beehives and little bees that symbolize hard work and thriftiness – perfect for a savings bank.

Address: 1054 Budapest, Hold u. 4.
How to get there:
– Metro M3 (Blue line): stop at Arany János utca, 5 minutes on foot
– Tram 2: stop at Széchenyi István tér, then walk through the government quarter

Frigyes Schulek and the Matthias Church

The Matthias Church in the Buda Castle District is one of Budapest’s most iconic landmarks. But the way it looks today is not how it looked centuries ago. When Frigyes Schulek began restoring the Matthias Church in the late 1800s, he didn’t just repair it – he reimagined it. Schulek wanted the building to look like a perfect medieval cathedral, even if that meant adding elements based on his imagination.

Instead of plain tiles, Schulek chose Zsolnay ceramics to cover the church’s roof in dazzling color. Around 150,000 tiles were installed, arranged in precise geometric patterns. The playful color scheme gives the church a brighter, more cheerful look than many other Gothic buildings in Europe, which tend to be grey and heavy. The Zsolnay tiles have become part of the church’s identity – and of Budapest itself.

After nearly a century of use, the roof was fully restored in 2008 using the same traditional materials. Today, visitors from all over the world admire the roof’s sparkle, especially on sunny days when the ceramic glazes light up like stained glass.

Address: 1014 Budapest, Szentháromság tér 2.
How to get there:
– Tram 19 or 41: stop at Clark Ádám tér, then take the Castle Hill Funicular or walk up the hill
– Bus 16: from Deák Ferenc tér directly to Szentháromság tér

Samu Pecz: tradition meets color

National Archives of Hungary

This fortress-like building near Bécsi kapu tér is another great example of Zsolnay tilework. Though the structure is reinforced with modern concrete, it looks like a Gothic castle, thanks to its ornate roof and facades designed by Samu Pecz.

Address: 1014 Budapest, Bécsi kapu tér 2–4.
How to get there:
– Bus 16 or 116: from Deák Ferenc tér to Bécsi kapu tér
– Also reachable with a 10–15 minute walk from Matthias Church through the Castle District

Reformed Church on Szilágyi Dezső Square

Just below Castle Hill, this smaller church features a steep, richly tiled roof similar in style to the Matthias Church. Not a coincidence – Pecz once worked alongside Schulek, and you can see the shared influence in the details.

Address: 1011 Budapest, Szilágyi Dezső tér 3.
How to get there:
– Tram 19 or 41: stop at Batthyány tér
– Metro M2 (Red line): stop at Batthyány tér, the church is just a few steps away

Library of the Budapest University of Technology and Economics (BME)

Nicknamed “the mini Hungarian Hogwarts” by students, this library near Gellért Hill is a hidden gem. The roof’s brownish Zsolnay tiles blend perfectly with the romantic design. From the Pest side of the river, the full picture comes into view.

Not only the library, but the rooftops of the university’s other buildings from the same era are also covered in these brown-toned Zsolnay tiles. The rooftops line up like a coordinated set, and the patterns form a grand, quiet composition that plays out across the skyline.

Address: 1111 Budapest, Budafoki út 4–6.
How to get there:
– Metro M4 (Green line): stop at Szent Gellért tér
– Tram 47 or 49: stop at Szent Gellért tér

Central Market Hall

Pecz’s most famous work, the Central Market Hall at Fővám tér, also wears a Zsolnay crown. This historicist building features towers, vibrant tilework, and decorative roof elements that hint at the Art Nouveau style that Lechner would later embrace fully.

Address: 1093 Budapest, Vámház körút 1–3.
How to get there:
– Metro M4 (Green line): stop at Fővám tér
– Tram 2, 47, or 49: stop at Fővám tér

Look up – There’s more than you think

Zsolnay roofs are part of what makes Budapest special. They’re not just pretty – they show what’s possible when design, craft, and bold ideas come together. Each tile tells a story. Each color, each pattern reflects the vision of an architect, the craftsmanship of a ceramic artist, and the pride of a city that isn’t afraid to be bold.

In a city full of statues, bridges, and historic buildings, it’s easy to overlook what’s above us. But the next time you’re walking through Budapest – whether it’s in the Castle District, Kőbánya, or near the Danube – take a few moments to look up. You might spot the golden greens of the Museum of Applied Arts, the fiery roof of the Central Market Hall, or the diamond-patterned crown of the Matthias Church glowing in the sunlight.

These ceramic reflect a time when Hungary was searching for its own voice in art and design. And they still stand as proof that even a roof can be a work of art, if the right hands build it.

So slow down. Tilt your head back. Let your eyes wander. Because in Budapest, some of the most magical things aren’t hidden – they’re just above your line of sight.