Imagine a small Hungarian town overrun by bizarre, fur-clad figures wearing terrifying wooden masks, brandishing wooden clubs, and making an absolute racket with cowbells and rattles. No, this isn’t a horror movie – this is Mohács during the legendary Busó Festival!

Every year, Mohács hosts this wild, centuries-old tradition to bid farewell to winter and welcome spring. If you’ve never heard of it before, buckle up – you’re in for a ride filled with noise, mystery and a fair share of chaos.

The origins of the madness

The Busó Festival (Busójárás) is deeply rooted in folklore and history. The event takes place after the first full moon following the spring equinox, usually during the last week of February.

According to legend, the tradition began when the Sokác people (a South Slavic ethnic group) fled the Ottoman invaders and hid in the nearby marshlands. One night, dressed in fearsome masks and making as much noise as possible, they crossed the Danube, stormed Mohács, and scared the invading Turks away. Historical accuracy? Questionable. Fantastic story? Absolutely.

More likely, the festival has Balkan origins, brought to Hungary by Sokác settlers centuries ago. The first recorded mention of the event dates back to the late 1700s.

The star of the show: the Busó

The Busó is the central figure of the festival. But what exactly is a Busó? Picture this: a massive, hairy creature wearing an intricately carved wooden mask, often painted with animal blood for extra spookiness. They dress in sheepskin cloaks, oversized baggy pants stuffed with straw, and wear traditional handmade shoes. Add in a cowbell and a wooden club, and you’ve got yourself a proper Busó.

These costumed figures storm the streets, frightening children, joking with visitors and playfully harassing festival-goers. Historically, they also went from house to house, bringing blessings and receiving food and drinks in return. Today, they still love their drinks – but mostly at the many festival taverns.

The festival in full swing

The festival starts with a spectacular arrival: Busós cross the Danube in wooden boats, marching through Mohács like an ancient army of mischief-makers. The town center quickly fills with costumed figures, street performers, dancers and thousands of tourists ready to join the revelry.

The day reaches its peak with a massive bonfire in the main square, where a symbolic coffin (representing winter) is burned, officially driving away the cold and welcoming spring. This fiery spectacle is followed by dancing, drinking and general merrymaking that lasts well into the night.

On the last day of the festival, another grand bonfire is lit, and a second winter-symbolic coffin is burned – just in case winter didn’t get the message the first time.

Quirky facts about the Busó Festival

1. The name “Busójárás” is a recent invention – The festival was originally called “Poklada,” meaning rebirth. The term “Busójárás” (meaning “Busó walking”) was coined by a journalist in the 1920s who observed the Busós wandering through town.
2. Once considered too scary – In 1783, religious leaders tried to ban the festival, claiming it was a dangerous pagan practice. Luckily, the locals ignored them, and the tradition lived on.
3. Busós used to have unlimited freedom – Until the 1960s, Busós had so much power during the festival that even the police wouldn’t interfere with their antics. Let’s just say it wasn’t uncommon for a few pranks to get out of hand.
4. UNESCO approved – In 2009, the Busó Festival was recognized as part of UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. So now, the world officially acknowledges how cool (and bizarre) this tradition is.
5. The Jankele’s strange origins – Another iconic character of the festival is the Jankele, a figure dressed in tattered rags carrying a sack filled with sawdust or ash. The Jankele’s origins trace back to a 19th-century Jewish peddler named Jankele Grün, who was teased by local children for his ragged appearance. Over time, his persona became part of the festival’s folklore, and now Jankeles playfully chase and dust festival-goers with their sacks.
6. Mysterious hidden Busó masks – Around a decade ago, during home renovations in Mohács, several ancient Busó masks were discovered hidden inside walls. Historians believe they were placed there to protect homes from evil spirits. To this day, residents are encouraged to report any similar findings.

Why you should go

The Busó Festival is unlike anything else in Europe. It’s loud, energetic and steeped in legend. Whether you want to see some of the most unique costumes in the world, enjoy folk dancing and music, or just experience an unfiltered, rowdy celebration, Mohács is the place to be in February.

One warning: if you visit, don’t be surprised if you leave covered in ash, flour or sawdust – courtesy of the playful Busós. But hey, that’s all part of the magic!

So, will you dare to face the Busós next winter?

• Address: 7700 Mohács, Széchenyi square 1.
• Official website: mohacsibusojaras.hu
• How to get there:
  • By car: Take the M6 motorway southbound towards Pécs. Exit at Bóly and follow signs to Mohács. Alternative approach: To avoid congestion on the main Budapest and Pécs roads, consider approaching Mohács via the Eszék road from Sátorhely. Parking: Due to limited parking, especially on weekends between 10:00 AM and 2:00 PM, it’s advisable to park on the Újmohács side. From there, ferries and small boats transport visitors directly to the festival area. Ferry schedules are available on the operator’s website.
  • Bus: Direct buses depart from Budapest’s Népliget Bus Station to Mohács approximately five times daily. The journey takes about 3 hours.
  • Train: While there’s no direct train from Budapest to Mohács, you can take a train from Budapest-Kelenföld to Pécs and then transfer to a bus to Mohács. The total journey time is around 4.5 hours.